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Plug coating!

Discussion in 'Pattern Making' started by Daz5789, Jan 29, 2014.

  1. Daz5789

    Daz5789 New Member

    Dear sirs, how is best to recover a wooden pattern to achieve a glass sheen to enable me to take a mould off? a friend of mine recommends Durabuild primer would this be correct? thank you in advance Darren.
  2. Gary

    Gary Administrator Staff Member

    Hi Darren,

    Durabuild coatings work fine, my preferred choice to be honest although all others work as well as, ie Scott Bader Prime-coat ect.
    First of all if its a MDF plug / softwood you must seal the wood first, Duratec sell a base-coat primer (823) which is ideal, if not in your workshop you can simply get away with a coat of polyester resin. De- nib when dry , you are now ready to coat your plug with Surface primer. Spraying with a G100 gun or any good workshop spray gun is best , thin down with Durabuild thinners up to 10% by volume maximum for best results, flash a light dusting over first to establish a surface, then reapply several times until your satisfied with the thickness i like to get about .3mm , then dry sand to flatten any high spots, lightly wipe with acetone and re apply primer again until plug is completely re covered showing no signs of original plug material.
    Leave overnight, then you can cut back with wet/dry paper, go in with 400 1st, go up to 800 then finish with 1200 paper. Polish with Profile 300 to obtain a high gloss sheen, then seek advice on release agents before proceeding or take a look at this guide http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/t-MakingMoulds.aspx
    Hope this helps.
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014
  3. Hi Darren,

    I recently purchased some Durabuild Surface Primer to prepare a good gloss surface coat on a car tailgate prior to producing a mould. I'd previously envisaged just applying Durabuild Crystal Clear sealant but was advised to use the surface primer by the distributor whos sells it in the UK.

    I have applied the solution by brush and it appears to go on nice and evenly but when cured I get a very rough, pitted surface. I can sand it down to a very smooth finish using quite abrasive paper but I must sand it back so much that I'm getting back to the metal & original paintwork in places.

    I've made sure temperature is between 15 to 20dg when applying it and for a couple of hours while it cures. I'm giving it a good thick coating and I even went back and gave it another coating the next day. Feel like I must be doing something wrong.

    Can I apply it satisfactorily by brush or should I be investing in a spray gun? Do you think I simply need more coats than I'm currently applying? I must admit to not following this bit of your above advice..." then dry sand to flatten any high spots, lightly wipe with acetone and re apply primer again until plug is completely re covered showing no signs of original plug material."

    Your help is much appreciated.

    Regards

    Dan
  4. Martin @ EC Tech

    Martin @ EC Tech Tech Staff Member

    HI Dan, this product is best applied by spray. by spraying the durabuild you will apply finer, thinner coats. these thinner coats will trap less air between layers.

    When applying by brush the durabuild can end up being applied too thick, this traps air in each coat, small pinholes can then appear when you start to rub back the layers. brush application is best kept for small projects that setting up and cleaning a spray gun is just not worth doing for. If you do decide to apply by brush ensure that the layers are applied thinly to help drag out the air trapped in the durabuild from mixing.

    If you spray the product you will need to thin it with no more than approx. 7% duratec thinners (do not use acetone) . your spray technique may take a bit of practice if you have never sprayed before so practice on something non critical first and play about with your gun settings.

    Hope this helps, Kind regards martin
  5. Thanks Martin - I think I may have spoken to you today when I called your tech line!

    I hadn't realised I'd need to spray it and, to be honest, I've neither the kit for it or room to do a good job of spraying.

    The tutorial I'm following suggested using just a sealant (Wattyl 7008 - Australian http://www.wattyl.com.au/en/find-th...looring/Clears/WattylEstapolFlooring7008.html) with a light sanding afterwards to seal in the filler I've used to fill some dents. Once I remove the Durabuild Surface Primer would you say that the Durabuild Sealant 823A would do a similar job to Wattyl 7008 and provide a glossy enough surface given that I'm starting off with a good glossy surface from the original paint and metalwork?

    One other question, any quick way to remove the Durabuild Surface Primer I've applied?

    Regards

    Dan
  6. Would anybody else be able to offer some advice on the above? Appreciate any help.

    Thanks

    Dan
  7. Martin @ EC Tech

    Martin @ EC Tech Tech Staff Member

    Hi Dan , to remove the primer you have already applied you will need to sand it back, there is no liquid stripper designed for removing it. Unfortunately I cannot compare our products to the Wattyl product as we have never used it. all durabuild products would still be best sprayed rather than brush applied. Kind rgds Martin

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